Jordan is a place of extremes and a land of hidden significance. My journey to Jordan triggered a dormant interest in the Bible, but also opened my eyes to the West’s role in determining the ‘geography’ of this region during the 20th Century – an act that fails to understand the history of the region and arguably has created a whole host of problems.
Get used to different…
From hot flat red sand to the most extraordinary rock formations on this planet. From small shabby looking villages to bustling city centres. From lunch for less than one Aussie dollar to stu-pendous banquets fit for a king! Of course there are the obvious places to visit; Amman, Aqaba, Dead Sea, Jerash, Petra and Wadi Rum. Just remember that scene from Indian Jones and the Last Crusade! But somehow there is so much more.
It’s incredibly old
Jordan has some of he oldest discoveries of man in the world. There is physical evidence of structured human life from around 6000 years ago. Which makes the pyramids really look like Time Square in comparison! Jordan is part of the ‘Promised Land that the Bible speaks about. It is the place, Mt Nebo, where God spoke to Moses after his wandering in the desert for 40 years and showed him the Promised Land.- Jerusalem It is the place where Jesus was baptised. It is the country of the oldest Byzantine churches (perhaps in ruins, yes, but nevertheless numer-ous). Jordan as it was until 1967, is the place where the Dead Sea scrolls were discovered in a cave. (And there are literally thousands of these bloody caves so how that shepherd happened upon this one cave is a miracle in itself!). It is a county of great religious and historical significance. Many of us believe that most of the Bible played out on the stage of Israel and ancient Egypt – and of course much of it did. However, I am not sure that most people realise the importance of Jordan.
Lines on a map don’t define history
For those, like me, who have a limited understanding of exactly what happened in the Sykes – Pi-cot treaty of 1916 it comes as a great shock to learn that most of the borders in the Middle East are not historical.
Of course I knew that Israel had been created as a state in 1948, but I had not been aware of the extent of creative mapping and the impact that this would have on this part of the world. Indeed we are still seeing the aftershocks playing out today
The Old World is still laying under the New. In the museum of Amman a wonderful map adorns one of the old walls.
And in looking at that map it all becomes clear. All those Biblical names stared down at me across different parts of the River Jordan.
It was looking at this map that it struck me – it made sense that there were no borders. It was all one land with different tribes and cultures living together – sometimes harmoniously and some-times not! That one map put in place the geographic context of this journey – those borders are artificial lines on a map determined by The Great Powers in some sweetheart deal. Lot, Moses and Jesus and other well loved biblical characters would have simply moved about their land never realising they were crossing future geographic – and arbitrary – borders which are now separated by fences, soldiers, guns or land mines! Talk about progress! A thirst for more
This discovery – while perhaps self evident – .
Jordan has acted as a signal to reread the bible with renewed interest, to read the Koran– not a religious awakening, but one steeped in historical curiosity.
It has triggered in me a need to better understand this land and its impact on the journey of man-kind and the intersection between our modern and ancient histories and perhaps a better under-standing of the tragedy of the modern nation state paradigm! So for anyone who wishes to embark on an adventure, a religious pilgrimage, a historical tour or indeed if you’re simply interested in trying to understand the current geopolitical morass, a tour through Jordan is a must!
Happy Bumbering
